Email me if you have any questions ([email protected]).
about an animal I didn't write about, training, care, etc.
Pet Lifespans
This is the average lifespans for different pets, some will live longer or shorter lives.
Also I only put some of the more common fish & birds, not every type.
~Hamsters: 1.5 - 3.5 years
~Guinea Pigs: 4 - 7 years
~Rabbits: 6 - 8 years
~Rats: 2 - 3 years
~Mice: 1.5 - 2 years
~Chinchillas: 10 - 15 years
~Gerbils: 2 - 3 years
~Degus: 6 - 8 years
~Ferrets: 6 - 8 years
~Hedgehogs: 4 - 6 years
~Cat: 12 - 15 years, some will live up to 20 years
~Dog: a big dog will usually live about 10 - 15 years, a small dog 15 - 20 years
~Horses: 25 - 30 years
~Ponies: about 35 years
~Reptiles:
Bearded Dragon: 10 - 15 years
Blue Tongued Skink: 15 - 20 years
Leopard Gecko: 15 - 20 years
Crested Gecko: 15 - 20 years
Iguana: about 20 years
Chameleons: most live about 5 years
Corn Snake: 15 - 20 years
Ball Python: 20 - 30 years
Boa Constrictor: about 35 years
Box Turtle: 40 - 50 years
Red-Eared Slider: 50 - 70 years
Tiger salamander: 12 - 15 years
Fire Bellied Newt: about 10 years
Dwarf Frogs: about 5 years
Pacman Frogs: about 10 years
Oriental Fire Bellied Toads: about 20 years
~Fish:
Goldfish: 10 to 30 years, depends on where it lives (type of housing)
Angelfish: about 10 years
Betta: 3 - 5 years
Tetra (all types): 4 - 5 years
Piranha: about 10 years
~Birds:
Finches - up to 15 years
Canaries - up to 15 years
Budgies - up to 15 years
Cockatiels - up to 20 years
Lovebirds - up to 20 years
Conures - up to 30 years
African Greys - up to 50 years
Cockatoos - up to 65 years
Macaws - up to 60 years
Doves and Pigeons - up to 20 years
Also I only put some of the more common fish & birds, not every type.
~Hamsters: 1.5 - 3.5 years
~Guinea Pigs: 4 - 7 years
~Rabbits: 6 - 8 years
~Rats: 2 - 3 years
~Mice: 1.5 - 2 years
~Chinchillas: 10 - 15 years
~Gerbils: 2 - 3 years
~Degus: 6 - 8 years
~Ferrets: 6 - 8 years
~Hedgehogs: 4 - 6 years
~Cat: 12 - 15 years, some will live up to 20 years
~Dog: a big dog will usually live about 10 - 15 years, a small dog 15 - 20 years
~Horses: 25 - 30 years
~Ponies: about 35 years
~Reptiles:
Bearded Dragon: 10 - 15 years
Blue Tongued Skink: 15 - 20 years
Leopard Gecko: 15 - 20 years
Crested Gecko: 15 - 20 years
Iguana: about 20 years
Chameleons: most live about 5 years
Corn Snake: 15 - 20 years
Ball Python: 20 - 30 years
Boa Constrictor: about 35 years
Box Turtle: 40 - 50 years
Red-Eared Slider: 50 - 70 years
Tiger salamander: 12 - 15 years
Fire Bellied Newt: about 10 years
Dwarf Frogs: about 5 years
Pacman Frogs: about 10 years
Oriental Fire Bellied Toads: about 20 years
~Fish:
Goldfish: 10 to 30 years, depends on where it lives (type of housing)
Angelfish: about 10 years
Betta: 3 - 5 years
Tetra (all types): 4 - 5 years
Piranha: about 10 years
~Birds:
Finches - up to 15 years
Canaries - up to 15 years
Budgies - up to 15 years
Cockatiels - up to 20 years
Lovebirds - up to 20 years
Conures - up to 30 years
African Greys - up to 50 years
Cockatoos - up to 65 years
Macaws - up to 60 years
Doves and Pigeons - up to 20 years
What To Get For New Puppy
~Wire crate with divider & plastic bottom tray - Get a crate that will be a good size for your dog when it's fully grown, use the divider to make it smaller for the puppy.
A plastic tray (instead of metal) will be easier to clean and not make as much noise, metal would be better if your puppy is a chewer. Getting a bigger crate will save you money and the dog will be more comfortable in a crate it already knows instead of a new one. DO NOT use a plastic travel carrier as a crate, these are not made for daily use and can cause health problem for you puppy.
~Food & water bowls - These should also be a good size for your dog full grown, just to save money. Get metal/steel or ceramic bowls, plastic can cause health problems and will break easy.
~Leash & collar - Make sure the collar is a good fit for the puppy, check it regularly to make sure it doesn't get to tight as the dog grows. You should be able to comfortably slide two fingers under the collar against your dog’s neck, if you find it hard to do this the collar is too tight. The collar should be snug but not tight with your fingers under it. DO NOT use a chock chain or prong collar, if you have trouble will pulling use a gentle leader or full body harness.
~Tags - With the dog's name, address & phone number
~High quality puppy food (see below) - Make sure you switch to adult food & then senior/mature. The age your dog should be when you switch will be written on the bag (usually about: Puppy under 1 year, adult 1-5 years, senior/mature 6+ years).
~Puppy toys - Stuffed animals, balls, ropes, kongs, teething toys (if your puppy chews a lot).
~Bed - This should also be a good size for when the puppy is fully grown. When the dog is fully housebroken a second bed for in the crate is a good idea, it will lessen the noise & be more comfortable.
~Brush/comb/nail clipper - You should get your puppy used to bring groomed right away so you don't have problems when he/she is older.
~Puppy pads - Only if you are planning on paper training
A plastic tray (instead of metal) will be easier to clean and not make as much noise, metal would be better if your puppy is a chewer. Getting a bigger crate will save you money and the dog will be more comfortable in a crate it already knows instead of a new one. DO NOT use a plastic travel carrier as a crate, these are not made for daily use and can cause health problem for you puppy.
~Food & water bowls - These should also be a good size for your dog full grown, just to save money. Get metal/steel or ceramic bowls, plastic can cause health problems and will break easy.
~Leash & collar - Make sure the collar is a good fit for the puppy, check it regularly to make sure it doesn't get to tight as the dog grows. You should be able to comfortably slide two fingers under the collar against your dog’s neck, if you find it hard to do this the collar is too tight. The collar should be snug but not tight with your fingers under it. DO NOT use a chock chain or prong collar, if you have trouble will pulling use a gentle leader or full body harness.
~Tags - With the dog's name, address & phone number
~High quality puppy food (see below) - Make sure you switch to adult food & then senior/mature. The age your dog should be when you switch will be written on the bag (usually about: Puppy under 1 year, adult 1-5 years, senior/mature 6+ years).
~Puppy toys - Stuffed animals, balls, ropes, kongs, teething toys (if your puppy chews a lot).
~Bed - This should also be a good size for when the puppy is fully grown. When the dog is fully housebroken a second bed for in the crate is a good idea, it will lessen the noise & be more comfortable.
~Brush/comb/nail clipper - You should get your puppy used to bring groomed right away so you don't have problems when he/she is older.
~Puppy pads - Only if you are planning on paper training
What To Get For New Kitten
~Plastic carrier - For vet visit, going to the groomers, travel. Make sure it will fit a full grown cat. One that can be taken apart is a good idea, it will be easy to get the cat out if he/she decides they don't want to come out on their own and easier to clean.
~Food & water bowls - Make sure it will be a good size for your cat full grown. Get metal/steel or ceramic bowls, plastic can cause health problems after a while.
~High quality kitten food (see below) - Make sure you switch to adult food & then senior/mature. The age your cat should be when you switch will be written on the bag (usually baout: Kitten under 1 year, adult 1-9 years, senior/mature 10+ years).
~Litter box - some cats do not like the covered boxes (if you have a young kitten he/she might get used to it).
~Litter - clumping or none clumping (depending on how you want to clean it), unscented if best for the cat's sensitive nose.
~Cat toys - balls with bells, toy mice, dangling toys are all good toys.
~Scratching post - Get a can of spray catnip and spray the post to make the cat more likely to use it.
~Cat tree - Most cats love these. Can also be used as scratching post, instead of buying both.
~Brush/comb/nail clipper - You should get your kitten used to bring groomed right away so you don't have problems when he/she is older.
~Bed - Not needed but some cats would like having their own bed. Most cats will sleep on your bed, back of couches, window sills, etc
~Collar & Tags - Good idea in case your cat gets outside.
~Leash & harness - If you plan on letting your cat outside using a leash & harness. It is safer then letting it run loose.
Cat that are let out alone can get sick, in fights, hit by a car, lost, etc. You will need to get the cat used to the leash & harness right away as a kitten. (see below)
~Food & water bowls - Make sure it will be a good size for your cat full grown. Get metal/steel or ceramic bowls, plastic can cause health problems after a while.
~High quality kitten food (see below) - Make sure you switch to adult food & then senior/mature. The age your cat should be when you switch will be written on the bag (usually baout: Kitten under 1 year, adult 1-9 years, senior/mature 10+ years).
~Litter box - some cats do not like the covered boxes (if you have a young kitten he/she might get used to it).
~Litter - clumping or none clumping (depending on how you want to clean it), unscented if best for the cat's sensitive nose.
~Cat toys - balls with bells, toy mice, dangling toys are all good toys.
~Scratching post - Get a can of spray catnip and spray the post to make the cat more likely to use it.
~Cat tree - Most cats love these. Can also be used as scratching post, instead of buying both.
~Brush/comb/nail clipper - You should get your kitten used to bring groomed right away so you don't have problems when he/she is older.
~Bed - Not needed but some cats would like having their own bed. Most cats will sleep on your bed, back of couches, window sills, etc
~Collar & Tags - Good idea in case your cat gets outside.
~Leash & harness - If you plan on letting your cat outside using a leash & harness. It is safer then letting it run loose.
Cat that are let out alone can get sick, in fights, hit by a car, lost, etc. You will need to get the cat used to the leash & harness right away as a kitten. (see below)
What You Need For Ferrets
~Carrier - For vet visits.
~Multilevel cage - Ferret Nation (Double unit) is a great cage for ferrets, it has lots of space and its very strong.
Both levels have doors that open all the way so it's easy to get at the ferrets and to clean. You can lock them in either the top or bottom section so you can clean the cage without worrying about them getting out or separate them if one is sick. The plastic trays come out for easy cleaning.
~Heavy food bowl - Ceramic is best, the bowl need to be heavy so they won't tip it over.
~Water bowl or bottle - Ferrets can drink from a bottle or bowl, if using a bowl make sure it's heavy so they don't tip it.
~High quality ferret food (sell below)
~Ferretone - Very useful, most ferrets love it and it's good for them. Putting some on their belly will distract them while clipping nails, making it much easier.
~Toys - There are ferret toys but most cat toys will also be fine. You can also fill a box with raw rice, plastic balls or shredded paper and hide toys inside (ferrets love to dig).
~Hammocks & blankets - Ferrets love to hide and sleep under blankets or inside things.
~Litter box - Ferrets can be litter trained but it's hard and some never get it. Make sure the sides are low and the box is a good size, ferrets usually back up into the spot they are going to pee/poop in so they need easy access to the box.
~Litter - Do not use sand like litter or anything clumping, it can block their nose and kill them. Recycled newspaper (yesterdays news, daily scoops, etc) or shredded paper (don't give this as a toy if you use for litter) is best.
~Nail Clipper - Baby nail clippers work great.
~Multilevel cage - Ferret Nation (Double unit) is a great cage for ferrets, it has lots of space and its very strong.
Both levels have doors that open all the way so it's easy to get at the ferrets and to clean. You can lock them in either the top or bottom section so you can clean the cage without worrying about them getting out or separate them if one is sick. The plastic trays come out for easy cleaning.
~Heavy food bowl - Ceramic is best, the bowl need to be heavy so they won't tip it over.
~Water bowl or bottle - Ferrets can drink from a bottle or bowl, if using a bowl make sure it's heavy so they don't tip it.
~High quality ferret food (sell below)
~Ferretone - Very useful, most ferrets love it and it's good for them. Putting some on their belly will distract them while clipping nails, making it much easier.
~Toys - There are ferret toys but most cat toys will also be fine. You can also fill a box with raw rice, plastic balls or shredded paper and hide toys inside (ferrets love to dig).
~Hammocks & blankets - Ferrets love to hide and sleep under blankets or inside things.
~Litter box - Ferrets can be litter trained but it's hard and some never get it. Make sure the sides are low and the box is a good size, ferrets usually back up into the spot they are going to pee/poop in so they need easy access to the box.
~Litter - Do not use sand like litter or anything clumping, it can block their nose and kill them. Recycled newspaper (yesterdays news, daily scoops, etc) or shredded paper (don't give this as a toy if you use for litter) is best.
~Nail Clipper - Baby nail clippers work great.
What You Need For Rats
~Carrier - For vet visits.
~Multilevel cage - Critter Nation is a great cage for rats. It gives them lots of space, is very strong and the bars have smaller spacing so they can't escape. Single would be good for up to 6 females or 4 males, double would be good for up to 14 females or 10 males (this is with lots of hammocks, shelves, etc to make extra space). DO NOT put them in a tank.
~Heavy food bowls - They will not be able to tip them over or drag them around. Ceramic if best (they won't destroy it by biting it apart).
~Water bottle
~High quality food (see below)
~Fresh/frozen vegetables, baby food, meat, pasta, etc (see below)
~Hammocks, blanket
~Litter box - Something heavy and that can attach to the cage is best or it will get dragged around/tipped over.
~Litter - Do not use sand like litter, anything clumping or pine/cedar wood chips. Some good ones are: Yesterdays News (or other recycled paper pellets), Carefresh, Aspen wood chips is okay.
~Toys - Most toys for birds, cats, ferrets, etc would be fine. Make sure it doesn't have small parts that can get eaten. Wood chews are great for their teeth. Stuffed toys can be dangerous if they get at the stuffing.
~Carrier - For vet visits.
~Multilevel cage - Critter Nation is a great cage for rats. It gives them lots of space, is very strong and the bars have smaller spacing so they can't escape. Single would be good for up to 6 females or 4 males, double would be good for up to 14 females or 10 males (this is with lots of hammocks, shelves, etc to make extra space). DO NOT put them in a tank.
~Heavy food bowls - They will not be able to tip them over or drag them around. Ceramic if best (they won't destroy it by biting it apart).
~Water bottle
~High quality food (see below)
~Fresh/frozen vegetables, baby food, meat, pasta, etc (see below)
~Hammocks, blanket
~Litter box - Something heavy and that can attach to the cage is best or it will get dragged around/tipped over.
~Litter - Do not use sand like litter, anything clumping or pine/cedar wood chips. Some good ones are: Yesterdays News (or other recycled paper pellets), Carefresh, Aspen wood chips is okay.
~Toys - Most toys for birds, cats, ferrets, etc would be fine. Make sure it doesn't have small parts that can get eaten. Wood chews are great for their teeth. Stuffed toys can be dangerous if they get at the stuffing.
Ferrets as Pets
Ferrets are very social animals, they can live alone (without another ferret) but would need extra attention. They would be best in groups of 2 or more. If you have males & females make sure they are fixed.
Babies ferrets will usually bite and they can bite hard, the only way to stop this is to play with them, cuddle them, etc. If they bite because they don't want to be picked up or are scared do not drop them or leave them (this will teach them that they get what they want from biting). If they bite just because they don't know better make a high pitched voice and keep playing with them (they will learn what is too hard).
They have a strong musky smell.
The smell will not go away (it will get a little less if they are de-scented) but do not give them baths to make it go away, the smell will stay and the bath will wash off oils that they need.
They should not be given a bath more then once or twice a year, playing in shallow water is fine if they like water.
Unless you can completely ferret proof your house (they can get into small holes, under some doors, inside couches & chairs, into dishwashers, etc) don't let them run loose, they should be in a big cage (at least 2-3 levels and lots of room, ferret nation is the best) when you are not home, sleeping or not able to watch them.
You can also ferret proof one room and let them run loose in it, go in to play with them or take them out for a few hours but when you are not around they should be in the room only. A cage is still a good idea so they can sleep in it if they want and you can lock them in if you have to.
Ferrets need at least 2 hours of attention each day (more if they are a single ferret) and at least 4 hours of out of cage playtime.
Litter training: some ferrets will never get it.
I have had three ferrets, one of them is perfectly litter trained, one of them goes in the litter most of the time and the other goes everywhere.
The litter box has to have low sides or at least one low side (ferrets will back into the litter box), you should also put it where you see them going most often and not near their water or favorite sleeping area.
If you see them about to go put them in the box and praise them when they go in the litter, also don't clean the litter box to well (don't wash with soap & water) because they go by smell to know where to use the bathroom.
Don't use cat litter or any kind of clumping litter it can get into their nose and stop them from breathing.
Feeding:
They should have their food available at all times, they will not overeat.
Look for a high quality food(see below).
If you are going to give them treats make sure the treats are just meat with no sugar, fruits or vegetables. Purebites are great (the only ingredient is meat).
Other:
They can not take extreme cold or heat so do not put their cage near windows or heaters/air conditioners (they are better in cold them heat).
They can be leash trained and they like to go outside (never let them off leash, they can run fast, get into small areas and be lost forever. They can also be gotten by a cat, bird or other predator animal), make sure they stay somewhere clean/safe and if the cement is hot keep them on the grass. If you do take them outside make sure they have all their shots and are on a flea/tick prevention medication.
They will like just about any toys you get them, just do not get them toys that can easily break or with small pieces that they can get out/off and choke on.
Know what you are getting into:
Ferrets live about 6-8 years and need at least 2 hours of attention (more if they are alone) each day and 4 hours of out of cage play time (supervised or in a ferret safe room/play area).
They need their nails clipped at least twice a month and their ears cleaned about once a week.
Around the age of 4 they can start to get diseases, just about every ferret will get one or more.
Some of the main ones are: Adrenal Disease & Insulinoma.
They can be expensive to treat and might need daily medication/care.
Babies ferrets will usually bite and they can bite hard, the only way to stop this is to play with them, cuddle them, etc. If they bite because they don't want to be picked up or are scared do not drop them or leave them (this will teach them that they get what they want from biting). If they bite just because they don't know better make a high pitched voice and keep playing with them (they will learn what is too hard).
They have a strong musky smell.
The smell will not go away (it will get a little less if they are de-scented) but do not give them baths to make it go away, the smell will stay and the bath will wash off oils that they need.
They should not be given a bath more then once or twice a year, playing in shallow water is fine if they like water.
Unless you can completely ferret proof your house (they can get into small holes, under some doors, inside couches & chairs, into dishwashers, etc) don't let them run loose, they should be in a big cage (at least 2-3 levels and lots of room, ferret nation is the best) when you are not home, sleeping or not able to watch them.
You can also ferret proof one room and let them run loose in it, go in to play with them or take them out for a few hours but when you are not around they should be in the room only. A cage is still a good idea so they can sleep in it if they want and you can lock them in if you have to.
Ferrets need at least 2 hours of attention each day (more if they are a single ferret) and at least 4 hours of out of cage playtime.
Litter training: some ferrets will never get it.
I have had three ferrets, one of them is perfectly litter trained, one of them goes in the litter most of the time and the other goes everywhere.
The litter box has to have low sides or at least one low side (ferrets will back into the litter box), you should also put it where you see them going most often and not near their water or favorite sleeping area.
If you see them about to go put them in the box and praise them when they go in the litter, also don't clean the litter box to well (don't wash with soap & water) because they go by smell to know where to use the bathroom.
Don't use cat litter or any kind of clumping litter it can get into their nose and stop them from breathing.
Feeding:
They should have their food available at all times, they will not overeat.
Look for a high quality food(see below).
If you are going to give them treats make sure the treats are just meat with no sugar, fruits or vegetables. Purebites are great (the only ingredient is meat).
Other:
They can not take extreme cold or heat so do not put their cage near windows or heaters/air conditioners (they are better in cold them heat).
They can be leash trained and they like to go outside (never let them off leash, they can run fast, get into small areas and be lost forever. They can also be gotten by a cat, bird or other predator animal), make sure they stay somewhere clean/safe and if the cement is hot keep them on the grass. If you do take them outside make sure they have all their shots and are on a flea/tick prevention medication.
They will like just about any toys you get them, just do not get them toys that can easily break or with small pieces that they can get out/off and choke on.
Know what you are getting into:
Ferrets live about 6-8 years and need at least 2 hours of attention (more if they are alone) each day and 4 hours of out of cage play time (supervised or in a ferret safe room/play area).
They need their nails clipped at least twice a month and their ears cleaned about once a week.
Around the age of 4 they can start to get diseases, just about every ferret will get one or more.
Some of the main ones are: Adrenal Disease & Insulinoma.
They can be expensive to treat and might need daily medication/care.
Rats as Pets
Rats are very smart animals, they can be taught their names, tricks and more. They clean themselves often and rarely need baths (only if they get into something).
If they are properly socialized and treated right they can bond with you and are very loving pets.
If their cage is cleaned often (every few days - once a week) they shouldn't smell bad.
Rats are very socials animals and can't live alone. You will occasionally get one that just can't live with others but they will need lots of extra human attention. Usually fighting can be fixed with a spay/neuter. Rats live best in groups of 3 or more but can live in a group of just two. Males and females can live together if they are fixed (preferably get the males fixed as it is less invasive/safer then getting the females fixed), if you don't want to get them fixed just keep only males or only females (females are less likely to fight each other, if your males start fighting they might need to get fixed).
If you get a rat from someone who handled them since birth they will be a lot more social and like interacting with people. A rat that has not been properly socialized since birth will be much more skittish and take longer to bond with. Unless the rat has been badly treated or has a hormonal problem (fixing usually fixes this) most will not bite.
Litter training:
Rats can be litter trained but it takes a lot of work and they will never be perfect, you can get them to mostly poop and sometime pee in the litter but you will find some poop around the cage and they will pee out of the litter often.
Praise them/give them a treat when they go in the litter.
The litter box should have high sizes (except the front part) and would be best if it attaches to the cage.
Don't use a sandy cat litter or any clumping litter.
Feeding:
Look for a high quality rat food to be available at all times.
Extra food (list below) at least once a day.
Some food they can eat: none of these should be sugared or have too much salt.
Broccoli (fresh or frozen)
Bananas (fresh or dried)
Peas (frozen)
Hard-boiled or Scrambled eggs
Spinach (fresh)
Grapes (red or green, without seeds)
Blueberries (fresh or frozen)
Cranberries (fresh, frozen or dried)
Cauliflower (fresh or frozen)
Carrots (fresh or frozen)
Apples (fresh without the seeds or dried)
Strawberries (fresh or frozen)
Raspberries (fresh or frozen)
Peppers (green, red, yellow, orange)
Cherries (fresh without the pits or dried)
Watermelon (fresh)
Cucumbers (fresh)
Raisins
Corn (frozen)
Corn on the Cob (cooked - watch carefully)
Small Tomatoes (fresh)
Baby Food (organic, ones with meat are usually liked best)
Toddler meals
Gerber Puffs
Toddler Rice Rusks
Most toddler/baby snacks are okay (just read the ingredients)
Apple Sauce (sugarless)
Yogurt (soy is best)
Plain popcorn (no salt, no butter)
Pasta (raw or cooked)
Cereal (cheerios, corn flakes, shreddies, etc)
Croutons (plain)
Crackers (plain, unsalted)
Tofu
Tuna (low salt)
Chicken (no skin)
Mashed Potato
Soy Milk
Cranberry juice
DO NOT FEED:
Bread
Peanut Butter
Sugary Foods/Junk Food
Caffeinated Drinks
Carbonated Drinks
Raw Sweet Potatoes
Green Potatoes
Green Bananas
Mango
Citrus
Onion
Garlic
Other:
Rats can not take extreme cold or heat. The temperature should be between 65-75 F or 18-23 C.
They cage should not be in direct sunlight, near a breeze or near a heater/air conditioner.
Rats prefer darker areas so they would be happiest with their cage in a dim area.
The cage should be in a quieter area of the house but not somewhere secluded, they would prefer to be somewhere that is walked by or live in often.
Rats should not be taken outside, if you really want to bring them outside keep them in a safe playpen or on a harness/leash (make sure they can't slip out of the harness). Make sure they are on a flea/tick preventative medication and you keep a very good eye on them, they can be taken by any predator animal.
Rats love toys and chewing on things, make sure they are given lots of chew toys and things to climb/hide under.
Know what you are getting into:
Rats only live about 2-3 years.
They can get sick often and will need to be given medications. Vet care can get very expensive.
They need a minimum of 1 hour attention each day, a minimum of 4-5 hours if they are housed alone.
Their feeding can also get expensive after a while and their cage needs to be cleaned often (to keep the smell down and for their health).
Rats also sometimes will dribble pee on you (as a territory marking, it shows their affection), they also will pee or poop on your/where they are playing (if they are litter trained and have a litter box available it will be less).
Rats are very smart animals, they can be taught their names, tricks and more. They clean themselves often and rarely need baths (only if they get into something).
If they are properly socialized and treated right they can bond with you and are very loving pets.
If their cage is cleaned often (every few days - once a week) they shouldn't smell bad.
Rats are very socials animals and can't live alone. You will occasionally get one that just can't live with others but they will need lots of extra human attention. Usually fighting can be fixed with a spay/neuter. Rats live best in groups of 3 or more but can live in a group of just two. Males and females can live together if they are fixed (preferably get the males fixed as it is less invasive/safer then getting the females fixed), if you don't want to get them fixed just keep only males or only females (females are less likely to fight each other, if your males start fighting they might need to get fixed).
If you get a rat from someone who handled them since birth they will be a lot more social and like interacting with people. A rat that has not been properly socialized since birth will be much more skittish and take longer to bond with. Unless the rat has been badly treated or has a hormonal problem (fixing usually fixes this) most will not bite.
Litter training:
Rats can be litter trained but it takes a lot of work and they will never be perfect, you can get them to mostly poop and sometime pee in the litter but you will find some poop around the cage and they will pee out of the litter often.
Praise them/give them a treat when they go in the litter.
The litter box should have high sizes (except the front part) and would be best if it attaches to the cage.
Don't use a sandy cat litter or any clumping litter.
Feeding:
Look for a high quality rat food to be available at all times.
Extra food (list below) at least once a day.
Some food they can eat: none of these should be sugared or have too much salt.
Broccoli (fresh or frozen)
Bananas (fresh or dried)
Peas (frozen)
Hard-boiled or Scrambled eggs
Spinach (fresh)
Grapes (red or green, without seeds)
Blueberries (fresh or frozen)
Cranberries (fresh, frozen or dried)
Cauliflower (fresh or frozen)
Carrots (fresh or frozen)
Apples (fresh without the seeds or dried)
Strawberries (fresh or frozen)
Raspberries (fresh or frozen)
Peppers (green, red, yellow, orange)
Cherries (fresh without the pits or dried)
Watermelon (fresh)
Cucumbers (fresh)
Raisins
Corn (frozen)
Corn on the Cob (cooked - watch carefully)
Small Tomatoes (fresh)
Baby Food (organic, ones with meat are usually liked best)
Toddler meals
Gerber Puffs
Toddler Rice Rusks
Most toddler/baby snacks are okay (just read the ingredients)
Apple Sauce (sugarless)
Yogurt (soy is best)
Plain popcorn (no salt, no butter)
Pasta (raw or cooked)
Cereal (cheerios, corn flakes, shreddies, etc)
Croutons (plain)
Crackers (plain, unsalted)
Tofu
Tuna (low salt)
Chicken (no skin)
Mashed Potato
Soy Milk
Cranberry juice
DO NOT FEED:
Bread
Peanut Butter
Sugary Foods/Junk Food
Caffeinated Drinks
Carbonated Drinks
Raw Sweet Potatoes
Green Potatoes
Green Bananas
Mango
Citrus
Onion
Garlic
Other:
Rats can not take extreme cold or heat. The temperature should be between 65-75 F or 18-23 C.
They cage should not be in direct sunlight, near a breeze or near a heater/air conditioner.
Rats prefer darker areas so they would be happiest with their cage in a dim area.
The cage should be in a quieter area of the house but not somewhere secluded, they would prefer to be somewhere that is walked by or live in often.
Rats should not be taken outside, if you really want to bring them outside keep them in a safe playpen or on a harness/leash (make sure they can't slip out of the harness). Make sure they are on a flea/tick preventative medication and you keep a very good eye on them, they can be taken by any predator animal.
Rats love toys and chewing on things, make sure they are given lots of chew toys and things to climb/hide under.
Know what you are getting into:
Rats only live about 2-3 years.
They can get sick often and will need to be given medications. Vet care can get very expensive.
They need a minimum of 1 hour attention each day, a minimum of 4-5 hours if they are housed alone.
Their feeding can also get expensive after a while and their cage needs to be cleaned often (to keep the smell down and for their health).
Rats also sometimes will dribble pee on you (as a territory marking, it shows their affection), they also will pee or poop on your/where they are playing (if they are litter trained and have a litter box available it will be less).
Feeding/Good Foods
These are going by adult dog/cat foods and dry kibble only.
Foods are in order of best - worst/but still good.
Dogs: Real meat should be the first ingredient (not by-product, meal is okay but not best), second ingredient should also be real meat or meal, no corn or wheat (grain free is best).
Some good foods are: Orijen (any type), Petcurean (go, now fresh), Wellness (any type), Fromm (any type), Blue Buffalo (wilderness, basics, freedom), Royal Canin (any type).
If your dog has food sensitivities and/or allergies Blue Basics is a great food, Wellness Simple is also good.
Cats: Real meat should be the first ingredient (not by-product, meal is okay but not best), second ingredient should also be real meat or meal, no corn or wheat (grain free is best).
Some good foods are: Orijen (any type), Petcurean (go, now fresh), Fromm, Wellness (any type), Blue Buffalo (any type), Royal Canin (any type).
Ferrets: The first 6 or more ingredients should be real meat, no grain (especially corn), peas are okay but should be far down on the list. Most food marketed for ferrets are not actually good for ferrets at all. A high quality cat food is best.
Some good foods are: Petcurean Go! Fit & Free (cat food), Orijen Cat & Kitten (cat food), Wysong Archetype I (ferret food), Innova EVO (ferret food).
Rats: The only food I would recommend is Oxbow adult rat.
Baby rats can also eat it supplemented with meat baby foods (about every second day until they are 4-5 months old).
These are going by adult dog/cat foods and dry kibble only.
Foods are in order of best - worst/but still good.
Dogs: Real meat should be the first ingredient (not by-product, meal is okay but not best), second ingredient should also be real meat or meal, no corn or wheat (grain free is best).
Some good foods are: Orijen (any type), Petcurean (go, now fresh), Wellness (any type), Fromm (any type), Blue Buffalo (wilderness, basics, freedom), Royal Canin (any type).
If your dog has food sensitivities and/or allergies Blue Basics is a great food, Wellness Simple is also good.
Cats: Real meat should be the first ingredient (not by-product, meal is okay but not best), second ingredient should also be real meat or meal, no corn or wheat (grain free is best).
Some good foods are: Orijen (any type), Petcurean (go, now fresh), Fromm, Wellness (any type), Blue Buffalo (any type), Royal Canin (any type).
Ferrets: The first 6 or more ingredients should be real meat, no grain (especially corn), peas are okay but should be far down on the list. Most food marketed for ferrets are not actually good for ferrets at all. A high quality cat food is best.
Some good foods are: Petcurean Go! Fit & Free (cat food), Orijen Cat & Kitten (cat food), Wysong Archetype I (ferret food), Innova EVO (ferret food).
Rats: The only food I would recommend is Oxbow adult rat.
Baby rats can also eat it supplemented with meat baby foods (about every second day until they are 4-5 months old).
Housebreaking a Dog/Puppy
Figure out how long after eating he has to poop and bring him out a little before (Ex: if it's 20 minutes after, go out in 15 minutes).
Do not go back inside until he has gone and give lots of praise and/or treat.
Also take him out about 15-20 minutes after he drinks and praise him for peeing outside.
Look for signs that he has to go (whatever he usually does just before he pees or poops) and bring him out right away, again praise when he goes.
If you catch him in the house give a stern NO and bring him straight outside.
Do not scold him if you don't catch him in the act or he won't understand what he did wrong and never hurt him.
While housebreaking he should be crated whenever you are not around and water/food should not be given for about 30 minutes before going to bed.
Also make sure you go out first thing in the morning & last thing at night.
Do not go back inside until he has gone and give lots of praise and/or treat.
Also take him out about 15-20 minutes after he drinks and praise him for peeing outside.
Look for signs that he has to go (whatever he usually does just before he pees or poops) and bring him out right away, again praise when he goes.
If you catch him in the house give a stern NO and bring him straight outside.
Do not scold him if you don't catch him in the act or he won't understand what he did wrong and never hurt him.
While housebreaking he should be crated whenever you are not around and water/food should not be given for about 30 minutes before going to bed.
Also make sure you go out first thing in the morning & last thing at night.
Crate Training a Dog/Puppy
First off crate training is not a mean thing to do. Dog love to have a place that is just theirs, somewhere they can go whenever they need to be safe or alone.
It's also safer for the dog & your house to leave them in a crate when you are out or sleeping.
If a dog is not used to a crate it can be scary for them like anything else that they don't understand, if properly introduced any dog will start to love their crate. A lot of dogs will spend most of their time (when they are not with you) relaxing in their crate.
Buying a crate:
Do not get a plastic/travel crate, these are not made for dogs to be in for long periods of time. Some dogs prefer a darkened crate which can be done by using a blanket or crate cover.
The crate should be large enough for the adult/full grown dog to stand, sit & stretch out. For a puppy block off one end (with the divider), so he can't turn one end into a sleeping area and the other into a bathroom area. Most animals will not want to pee/poop where they sleep or eat.
If he is fully housebroken you can put a bed or blanket in the crate to make it more comfortable.
The crate being in your bedroom is best, being with you at night will make the dog more comfortable and happier.
Always leave the crate open so the dog can go in & out whenever he wants, this will make it seem more like a special place instead of a cage.
Do not ever put your dog in the crate as a punishment.
You can give a special "crate toy" that he only gets while in the crate (not treats or anything that will make him need to go outside).
At the beginning put him in the crate every few hours (while you are home) and do not give any attention or let him out if he is barking/whining, give lots of praise when he is quiet.
Start by leaving him in for short amounts of time and lengthen the amount of time as he gets better in the crate (quieter/more comfortable).
Once he is fine going in and not barking or whining anymore he is crate trained and you can start closing him in only when you are out/sleeping.
My dog was crate trained really fast (within a week), now when I let her outside for the last time before bed she come in and runs straight into her crate and waits for me to close the door.
She also goes into it (on her own) during the day when she feels like taking a nap or if there are lots of visitors and she gets too stressed/wants quiet.
It's also safer for the dog & your house to leave them in a crate when you are out or sleeping.
If a dog is not used to a crate it can be scary for them like anything else that they don't understand, if properly introduced any dog will start to love their crate. A lot of dogs will spend most of their time (when they are not with you) relaxing in their crate.
Buying a crate:
Do not get a plastic/travel crate, these are not made for dogs to be in for long periods of time. Some dogs prefer a darkened crate which can be done by using a blanket or crate cover.
The crate should be large enough for the adult/full grown dog to stand, sit & stretch out. For a puppy block off one end (with the divider), so he can't turn one end into a sleeping area and the other into a bathroom area. Most animals will not want to pee/poop where they sleep or eat.
If he is fully housebroken you can put a bed or blanket in the crate to make it more comfortable.
The crate being in your bedroom is best, being with you at night will make the dog more comfortable and happier.
Always leave the crate open so the dog can go in & out whenever he wants, this will make it seem more like a special place instead of a cage.
Do not ever put your dog in the crate as a punishment.
You can give a special "crate toy" that he only gets while in the crate (not treats or anything that will make him need to go outside).
At the beginning put him in the crate every few hours (while you are home) and do not give any attention or let him out if he is barking/whining, give lots of praise when he is quiet.
Start by leaving him in for short amounts of time and lengthen the amount of time as he gets better in the crate (quieter/more comfortable).
Once he is fine going in and not barking or whining anymore he is crate trained and you can start closing him in only when you are out/sleeping.
My dog was crate trained really fast (within a week), now when I let her outside for the last time before bed she come in and runs straight into her crate and waits for me to close the door.
She also goes into it (on her own) during the day when she feels like taking a nap or if there are lots of visitors and she gets too stressed/wants quiet.
Getting Puppy/Dog used to a leash and collar
Do this in the house:
Keep the collar on the dog all the time so he will get used to it.
When you first put it on give him treats every time he doesn't try to get it off.
Once he is used to the collar (ignores it, doesn't try to pull it off) you can attach the leash, again give him treats when he is calm and not trying to get away from it.
Do not leave the leash attached all the time, it can get caught on something and hurt the dog.
With the leash attached call him to you or put treats around the house so he can get used to walking with the leash on.
If you have someone else to help you can take turns calling him to you and give him a treat when he get to you.
At first let the leash drag, after a few times pick up the leash but do not pull on it at all.
Keep the collar on the dog all the time so he will get used to it.
When you first put it on give him treats every time he doesn't try to get it off.
Once he is used to the collar (ignores it, doesn't try to pull it off) you can attach the leash, again give him treats when he is calm and not trying to get away from it.
Do not leave the leash attached all the time, it can get caught on something and hurt the dog.
With the leash attached call him to you or put treats around the house so he can get used to walking with the leash on.
If you have someone else to help you can take turns calling him to you and give him a treat when he get to you.
At first let the leash drag, after a few times pick up the leash but do not pull on it at all.
If your puppy bites
First make sure you have lots of toys for you puppy to chew on and always have some toys around when you are playing.
There are a few different ways to stop biting:
1. If your puppy starts to bite say NO and give him/her a toy to chew on, praise when he/she chews the toy instead.
2. Say ow in a loud/high pitch voice every time the puppy bites you.
3. When the puppy starts to bite get up and walk away. Go back after a few minutes and play again. Continue to walk away every time he/she starts to bite.
The puppy should learn that biting makes the play stop.
Also don't play games with your hands (waving your hands for the puppy to chase, etc) and when your puppy is doing something wrong or jumping onto you don't push him/her away. Pushing him/her will seem like a game and he/she will start to bite at your hands/feet.
There are a few different ways to stop biting:
1. If your puppy starts to bite say NO and give him/her a toy to chew on, praise when he/she chews the toy instead.
2. Say ow in a loud/high pitch voice every time the puppy bites you.
3. When the puppy starts to bite get up and walk away. Go back after a few minutes and play again. Continue to walk away every time he/she starts to bite.
The puppy should learn that biting makes the play stop.
Also don't play games with your hands (waving your hands for the puppy to chase, etc) and when your puppy is doing something wrong or jumping onto you don't push him/her away. Pushing him/her will seem like a game and he/she will start to bite at your hands/feet.
Stop Your Dog From Pulling
Using a Gentle Leader (or similar) is great help.
A harness can also help if your dog is really strong.
When going for walks make sure you have lots of time.
Start walking, when your dog is walking nicely (no tension on the leash, walking next to your legs) praise him/give him treats every few steps.
As soon as the dog starts to pull stop moving, let the dog pull all he wants but do not move and do not speak.
Once he has stopped pulling and come back to you start walking again. If he stops pulling and looks at you (but doesn't come back) you can call him to you or gently tug the leash so he come towards you, once he is near you praise him and start walking.
This can take a week - a month but eventually the dog will realize that if he wants to keep moving he has to walk nicely.
A harness can also help if your dog is really strong.
When going for walks make sure you have lots of time.
Start walking, when your dog is walking nicely (no tension on the leash, walking next to your legs) praise him/give him treats every few steps.
As soon as the dog starts to pull stop moving, let the dog pull all he wants but do not move and do not speak.
Once he has stopped pulling and come back to you start walking again. If he stops pulling and looks at you (but doesn't come back) you can call him to you or gently tug the leash so he come towards you, once he is near you praise him and start walking.
This can take a week - a month but eventually the dog will realize that if he wants to keep moving he has to walk nicely.
Dog With Separation Anxiety
Here are a few things you can do about separation anxiety (it will not all work with all dogs):
~Leave him in a crate when you are out. Make sure to crate train him first and that he is comfortable with the crate.
~Leave some dog toys out (one he doesn't usually get). Kongs stuffed with treats or peanut butter are great.
~Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise and is taken outside before you leave.
~Leave your dog a blanket or piece of clothing that has your scent on it. This might comfort him - make sure it is something you don't mind being torn up though.
~Leave a radio or t.v. on, the voices might comfort him.
~Put an anti-bark collar on the dog when you leave - it could help with the barking.
~Ignore him for 10 minutes before leaving and then slip out the door with no fuss. Same thing when you arrive home, just go about your business for about 10 minutes, ignore your dog. When he is calm, you can give him some attention.
~Bring him to a doggy daycare when you go out or have someone come to your house.
~Get another dog. Do not do this unless you are able & willing to own/care for another dog.
~Leave him in a crate when you are out. Make sure to crate train him first and that he is comfortable with the crate.
~Leave some dog toys out (one he doesn't usually get). Kongs stuffed with treats or peanut butter are great.
~Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise and is taken outside before you leave.
~Leave your dog a blanket or piece of clothing that has your scent on it. This might comfort him - make sure it is something you don't mind being torn up though.
~Leave a radio or t.v. on, the voices might comfort him.
~Put an anti-bark collar on the dog when you leave - it could help with the barking.
~Ignore him for 10 minutes before leaving and then slip out the door with no fuss. Same thing when you arrive home, just go about your business for about 10 minutes, ignore your dog. When he is calm, you can give him some attention.
~Bring him to a doggy daycare when you go out or have someone come to your house.
~Get another dog. Do not do this unless you are able & willing to own/care for another dog.